Santal Galore by Areej Le Dore

by Therapeutic Fragrance

SCORE: 91

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Who? I See Wearing the Fragrance

Grandpa

Where? I Use the Fragrance

When? The Season I Use the Fragrance

All Year

What? Occasions or Events I Use Fragrance

Perfumer:

Manuel Cross

#chypresiam

Price Per Millileter

75 30ML

Perfume Classification

Eau Da Toilet

How? I Apply the Fragrance

3 - 5

This is old fashioned goodness at a great price. My family wasn’t huge into fragrances. But this scent is familiar being as classic as it is. If you had guys in your life growing up who splashed on even after shave or cheaper colognes there is a great chance it was a chypre. This is a copy of the classics. The perfume States it and that is his full motivation for creating the scent. Here's your chance to get a taste or should I say sniff of what real oakmoss does to perfume. If you have a classic chypre in your collection chances are you do it's a great lesson on synthetic vs natural. It's worth the sample for that. If you are already not quite sure about this fragrance family, stay away from this it only goes deeper into what you probably don't like. You just get more earth and dirt and depth that a synthetic simply can't replicate. Fragrance in my opinion compared to Perfumes Notes I have five wearings on this and I literally get more respect for this each time. Whenever my score get high I am trying to keep to a minimum of five wearings just to make sure, it’s important that when I put it out there I mean it. It’s the same fragrance but I fall deeper every time. I get oakmoss has an off putting attribute, but it also has some sort of charm that pulls me back sits me down and tells me another story. Yeah that is Oakmoss for me. This I can see is how bergamont became one of the most well known citrus openings in fragrance it is literally the yin and yang of oakmoss to me. The KISS principle. This is taking what is forever known and people letting it die out. And this guy had a passion for giving us what is being taken away. This is old fashioned goodness from first sniff to the last. A perfect wearing fragrance. You get every phase of a chypre perfectly. This is someone offering something that other people aren’t. Real oakmoss is the reason you would be buying his scent and a natural citrus opening. I was in a perfume vintage shop and they had a du coq Guerlain from the 80’s supposedly I was about to buy every box. I put it on my skin and the citrus was a synthetic. Just no depth your overused citrus that a lot of people who dislike citrus I would say this is a big reason. This is a great opening. The fresh scent doesn’t overtake my skin and you can just tell the difference of the Oak moss. If you are not sure what the real deal is, here is your chance to sample or own a bottle at some of the best prices I have seen.

Bottle Presentation

Company:Rogue Perfumery
Perfumer:Manuel Cross
Fragrance Family:chypre
Classification:Eau Da Toilet
Pricing:$2.50/fluid ml
Country:United States, California
Year:2017
Hashtag:#chypresiam

Therapeutic Fragrance Score Chart

Chypre Siam

Addictiveness
& O.G. Factors
15/15
Projection & Sillage 5/5
Longevity 5/5
Composition 23/25
Ingredients
& Price per ML
21/25

FRAGRANCE

TOP: 10/10
HEART: 5/5
BASE: 7/10

SCORE: 91

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46 comments

  1. I know all the natural notes from my vintage perfumes and that's why it's difficult for me to find somethging I really love nowadays. There is nothing like natural notes. Natural Oakmoss is divine.

    1. Funny you bring this point up Agnes. I just found the best shop here in Portland that specializes in vintage men's cologne. The vintage gentlemen took me through about ten oakmoss based fragrances. I am slowly buying one by one in order of stock they have left. They are very good perfumes, nothing like original formulas.

  2. What you said about enjoying it more each time you wore it, several fragrances from Rogue are like that. At first, you think they’re just ok. After a few wearings, you really start to get what the scent is delivering and the ‘ok’ turns into ‘OMG this is incredible’.

    1. I think it's being so used to oakmoss being replicated and I can't stand modern versions. So when I apply the real thing my brain thinks it's going to be the modern garbage and then the real deal shows you why it's is such a mainstay in perfumery. This can't be replaced. It's a sad day that this ingredient is being banned by IFRA. We really need to back companies like rogue with are pockets. While he is fighting a big machine.

    2. @Therapeutic Fragrance Completely agree. IFRA are far too heavy handed. Hopefully this encourages others to make the fragrance they want. Not the fragrance IFRA allows them to make.

    1. Very true, first fragrance my mom bought me at the grocery store. I was convinced it was a kids version and went a compared every wording with mine and my grandpas whose bottle was heavier and oh so much older. And smelled a hundred times better.

    2. @Therapeutic Fragrance The older Shulton-produced bottles smelled more of talcum powder than the newer Proctor & Gamble bottles. Less synthetic, as well. My parents gave me a bottle for Christmas, around 1970 — still wear it when I am feeling nostalgic.

  3. This sounds amazing! I struggle with Mitsouko because of the boiled peanut whiff (the EDP is less peanutty than the EDT) I smell in it, but otherwise, I love old school chypre perfumes.

    1. Therapeutic Fragrance Not that I’m aware of, the bottles I have are fairly recent formuations. I’ve considered splurging on a vintage bottle because I’d love to know how it used to smell.

  4. There is a website here in Australia called LKNU, they had a 15% father's day sale and I blind bought this after watching your video. Thanks for it. It has grown on me in 3-4 wearings. I am just entering the natural perfumery world and I feel like the bottle has also improved after opening. I might be overthinking though.

    I was wondering if you have used Chypre Palatin too. Please review that if possible. It would be great to see what you think of it.

    1. Who does Chypre Palatin, not familiar. I am always open to all things Chypre. Chypre Siam is the one to go for. Depending if perfumer let it rest or not properlty, the first six weeks are critical for a composition. After that depending on ingredients used it does change. Fortunately you lose citrus and hope they only fade for the most part this has been my experience. But your heavy base layers turn to majic and only conitinue to beautify everything in the bottle thoughout time. Must be stored properly. No sunlight cool as possible.

    1. Hey Peter, Haven't tried MDCI. I know there latest release were not that well received by many. Oakmoss is pretty much banned in any IFRA compositions one reason Chypre Siam stands out and the old school aroma chemicals. I have been on a vintage kick for Chypre finding the old ones that contain heavy oakmoss that are still very affordable, just takes some looking.
      Two modern Chypre's if you haven't tried is Bogue MAAI (especially since you love MEM) and Kolonya by Rasei Fort. They are a lot different without heavy oak moss, but two of my favorite Chypre's. My classics video contains some great stuff also of some vintages I picked up.

    2. Therapeutic Fragrance yea makes sense—using more traditional aromachemicals means the Rogues should be more true to form. I have and enjoy current Mitsouko EDP (which I understand took some clever alchemy from Wasser to simulate real oak moss), but it’s not quite a love yet. Hopeful Rogue resonates with me.

      When I got MEM, I unexpectedly received several samples from the house, including MAAI—it’s a gorgeous one full of smoke, florals, and greenery. Smells organic and alive—shifting and natural. Currently my top chypre contender right now. Kolonya is on my list too!

    3. Therapeutic Fragrance got the Rogue sample set and sampled two thus far: Chypre-Siam and Mousse Illuminae—have to say I vastly prefer the former. C-S is downright gorgeous and beautifully blended—looking forward to doing some side-by-sides with MAAI, Mitsouko, and Civet from my current stash.

      MI unfortunately reminds me of a hamster cage from childhood—the cedar wood chips for its bedding, the green pellets and frozen vegetables for its food, and the fuzzy musks from the animal itself. Like Dodo, this is another otherwise quality fragrance marred by a past memory—interestingly both from pets growing up. 🤷🏻‍♂️

    4. Love the Illuminae write up I need to laugh every once in awhile. Like I mentioned in my awards video I did over react to this house. I'm sure it's because of the non-infra stance. The Chypre Siam is the star and I wear mine quite often. It really is a stunning remake of a classic profile. I haven't tried the Rogue40 either.

  5. Been a few months. How are you liking it now?

    I recently tried a sample. Beautiful scent. Leans a bit too feminine. Floral notes are very strong.

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