Squid is an ode to ambergris, floating chunks that are “relics of the battle” between whale and squid, a scent that “ripples with mystery,” just like the ocean, with a juice color to match: a gorgeous blue. It opens with an aquatic ozonic cooling quality, almost terpenic, then you are quickly ushered under the ocean’s surface to witness its dark mysteries. Squid goes a bit warmer with sweet resins, balsams, incense, and spices (maybe cardamom, ginger, star anise?) and some vanilla. As it dries, it gets more ambery, vanillic, and musky. It’s a sweet-and-salty ambergris with some resins. I appreciate that this is not too salty. I was worried this would be too salty, too fishy, too calone-melony-fresh, or rely too heavily on the inky qualities of vetiver or to achieve the brief, but the synthetic ambergris musk paired with the pink pepper and salt create an oceanic association that is new and good. This is one of the most wearable Zoologist perfumes. There is just a little too much vanilla in here for me, however, so I’m happy just to sample this. —Lou Sniffs
*Perfume is affected by individual skin chemistry. In addition, my life experiences will shape how I perceive certain notes. Each person may have a different experience with a scent, or perceive it in a different way. I encourage sampling instead of blind buying, and always trust your own nose.