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Bortnikoff L’huere Exquise Perfume Extrait Review and Score

by Therapeutic Fragrance


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Who? I See Wearing the Fragrance

Brad Pitt

Where? I Use the Fragrance

When? The Season I Use the Fragrance

All Year

What? Occasions or Events I Use Fragrance


Dmitry Bortnikoff


Price Per Millileter

280 50ML

Perfume Classification

Extrait de Parfum

How? I Apply the Fragrance

Three to Five sprays

Fragrance Overview

How can run khus do this?  On its own, it is so dark and earthy, but used against these heavy naturals, my goodness, everything just floats in a sillage of bliss.  Ready to enter bliss.  I spray it on so carefully so it touches as much skin as possible.  I want to be bathed in this sillage.  I want to be in a bubble.  I want to carry it all around.  This is a #daychanger. This perfume is one you can pick notes out of and yet can’t at the same time.  There is a gourmand feel with wild earth hanging in the air.  This is al fresco in the summer evening. I long for these days in the Pacific Northwest.  This escape I can now get a piece of in a wearing of L’Heure. How to choose from the Bortnikoff line?  I have no problem admitting I really wanted something with one of those super cool Oud names from the house: Mysterious (my Sherlock Holmes marathon companion), Maximus (a gladiator fragrance, finally), Monarch (perhaps a Downton Abbey sidekick).  But this just struck me.  To me, it is the house’s best work thus far and an example of what raw natural materials can be.   I highly recommend getting samples and applying on one arm these against modern designers to really see the difference of these powerful ingredients on skin.  I just write with words; the true power is to smell this for yourself.

Fragrance Review

It's just a special accord from Dmitry Bortnikov.  A bubble gum scent comes over the top of it; I have smelled this in other Bortnikoffs.  I swear I smell honeysuckle, though it’s not listed, but there is a great floral bouquet supported by the champaca.  The dark cacao hits, but a floral bouquet sweetens it.  In the royal way I often talk about. There it is again: royal.  Chocolate oud?  Is this my favorite combo?  I don’t want to talk about it too much, or every house under the sun will make a chocolate/oud combo.  This I would put in the Gourmand Floral category.  The number one compliment I’ve received was for this perfume.  "What is that?!" His words, not mine. He said the scent was pulling him in and he couldn't help himself.  Now, this reaction came from someone that has no real interest in fragrance, yet this captivated him and he had to know more. In the heart, I clearly get a smooth cedar note backed with the camphor adding some burnt cedar vibes to the fume. Sweet, sweaty, pretty floral, burnt woods all make appearances in this thing.  A lot of different vibes happen during the wearing, and it attracts people to it for this reason. This dries out with a sweet, clean one-to-two-foot sillage and an animalic dirty vibe when smelled close to the skin.  If you’re a hugger like me, people will get both effects.  For me, it’s perfect.  I like having a transformer as a perfume; unfortunately, a lot of people strangely enough have no clue what to do with animalic scents, especially if they don’t have pets. Overall, this is chocolate on the skin and heaven in the scent bubble. L'Heure Exquise was launched in 2018. The nose behind this fragrance is Dmitry Bortnikov. Perfume rating: 4.30 out of 5 with 35 votes. Spring in Paris has almost become summer today. The shades of evening begin to descend. You sit in a cafe in the city center and look at the Seine. The sun goes down and the colors of the day mix with the purple sky. The familiar outlines of objects are faded by pastel tones, your eyes rest, and your feelings become stronger. The waiter brings you a cup of cocoa and a dessert. Dusky air cools your face and you feel the richness of scents brighter than ever before: the beverage, the food and a bouquet of flowers nearby. It is L'heure Exquise. The fragrance starts with a soft mix of Cardamom and Citruses. In a moment you get into a whirlpool of spicy notes of Cocoa, Clove and Myrrh. The heart of the fragrance beats with floral notes of exotic Champaca and Jasmine. Indonesian and Vietnamese Oud, Tolu Balsam and delicate White Amber are warming the beautiful base of the fragrance. L'Heure Exquise Notes: Bergamot, neroli, cardamom, champaca, champaca leaf, jasmine, attar motia, cedar, cacao, clove, camphor, nagarmotha, myrrh, Vietnamese oud roots, Indonesian oud, styrax, tolu balsam, ambergris

Bottle Presentation

Perfumer:Dmitry Bortnikoff
Fragrance Family:Oriental Gourmand
Classification:Extrait de Parfum
Pricing:$5.60/fluid ml

Therapeutic Fragrance Score Chart

Bortnikoff L'huere Exquise

Experience 14/15
Branding & Originality 4/5
Projection & Sillage 5/5
Longevity 5/5
Composition 18/20
& Price per ML


TOP: 10/10
HEART: 5/5
BASE: 10/10


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  1. Bortnikoff is my favorite. I keep falling for his stuff. In the long run, I might just wait for his stuff and get full bottles after sampling and may be avoid most other stuff.

  2. I also think this is Dmitry's best work. Very original composition…and high quality materials. What niche should really stand for. Fantastic breakdown and review Brandon!

    1. @Therapeutic Fragrance I agree, apparently it's the same formula but the oud is blended differently or something? I don't think I'll get a full bottle but I hope both of us get a sample of it for comparison purposes

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