Areej Le Dore War and Peace Handmade Artisanal Perfume

by Therapeutic Fragrance

SCORE: 81

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Who? I See Wearing the Fragrance

Luke Skywalker

Where? I Use the Fragrance

When? The Season I Use the Fragrance

Colder Weather even Summer Evenings

What? Occasions or Events I Use Fragrance

Perfumer:

Russian Adam

#ajdwarandpeace

Price Per Millileter

220 30ML

Perfume Classification

Extrait de Parfum

How? I Apply the Fragrance

1 - 9

This is a dark, animalic, and leathery composition that is built around a mesmerizing co-absolute of wild Siberian deer musk, ambergris, and castoreum, created by Russian Adam.Top notes:35-million-year-old amber resin (Well, we can debate this, but OK, I now own something 35 million years old, let’s go with that)Heart notes:ruh gulab 2019, Taif rose, Indian patchouli, and orris root absoluteBase notes:co-absolute of deer musk, ambergris, and castoreum made by Russian Adam, Indian oakmoss, Indonesian vetiver absolute, synthetic civet, and amber resin oil

Fragrance Quick Story

There is no justice wearing this thing once.  It has become so much more so quickly. By the time I knew it, it was too late.  I helped hype this stuff to my own destruction. I came up empty handed, but that’s kind of what makes getting the treasure even better, isn’t it? 

This would be easy to smell briefly and form an opinion of disgust or be turned off initially.  It is one of the most advanced perfumes I have put my nose on. If you stay and let this thing breathe, it pays back like a full gushing heart full of hope.  It is packed with so many nuances that in eight wearings I still have a ways to go to figure this one out. My wearings have only been one spray, one spray, three, three, three, and two.  And I want so much more, but have to be diligent in saving this for reference of a masterpiece.  

Again, Russian Adam is like a master chef; he only uses a few ingredients, but knows how to get the very best that no one else can and to use the exact right technique and simplicity.  It’s an art in itself that few can obtain. Here we are seeing Russian Adam’s expertise. It seems so simple, but it’s masterful. The best of the best know how to do it. And right before our eyes, it is happening in perfumery.  I wish I could have opened with this review, but it wouldn’t give the perfume justice, and that’s not fair to all of us.

Fragrance in my opinion compared to Perfume’s Notes

I can smell an AJD signature different from the musk one.  This I have smelled in FDF, Baikal Gris. We’re talking a beast of a lineup that isn’t as in-your-face that you would think it would be;  it’s a wearable and addictive animalic. Yes, dark, dark of the ocean and the forest. Musk and ambergris are working magic here. It is adding so much equanimity to the vetiver, a truly medicinal effect.

The very top is the best for me, but most people buying this want this top to go away quickly because you know that the dirty, dark, animalics are bottom-loaded in this.  But the iris floating in the top above all of this, I have learned at this stage in my journey, is some of my favorite fume’.

On my skin, a pisslike animalic transitions this first into the heart.  A very popular form of animalic that I love, and this keeps dirtying up after that for more nuance.  Darkness continues to form, as this is loaded with most of the popular animalic base layers: civet, oakmoss, vetiver, castoreum, and an earthy patchouli.

A true leather comes through and feels like a jacket.  Rose is never its own note for me, but you can tell what it’s doing.  Just the slightest resonance of Malik al Taif.

We are starting to see all of Areej’s work come together here: nothing overplayed, and everything helping the overall composition be oh-so-pleasant in the drydown for the ages.  This is the stuff to get excited about. This is grassroots perfumery, and there is no sign of him letting up. I was worried, but here we are: another bottle of glory.

As the heart forms, this is where the fragrance sort of comes apart and gets lost for me.  All the stars are there, but not helping each other out. It feels like they are shouting out over each other.  Instead of complementing and forming accords, it’s like each one is a narcissist, fighting for attention.

There is something in the blend of base notes that I feel still needs tweaking.  I can detect everything on its own. I think it needs to be blended a bit more to form a unique accord, like the one I was talking about above.

The drydown gets more fecal with the animalics.  And I never really got the freshness from the vetiver and patchouli that I absolutely love.  It gets lost in the darkness. In the same tone, the iris is there but is muddled with these dark gorgeous oils.  It just doesn’t intertwine like it should for me.

Again, for those who own this, everything in this is going to age well with time.  The civet note is one of the exceptions. But all that dark loaded goodness at the bottom will continue to get better and better.  I am keeping the tiniest of sprays to check this out in a few years just for my own understanding of the aging process. The way I am going, I might have to seek out a decant of this.

Bottle Presentation

Company:Areej Le Dore
Perfumer:Russian Adam
Fragrance Family:oleoresinous wonder
Classification:Extrait de Parfum
Pricing:$7.33/fluid ml
Country:Thailand
Year:2019
Sex:Masculine
Hashtag:#ajdwarandpeace
Short Description:Leo Tolstoy

Therapeutic Fragrance Score Chart

War & Peace

Experience 13/15
Branding & Originality 5/5
Projection & Sillage 4/5
Longevity 5/5
Composition 16/20
Ingredients
& Price per ML
20/25

FRAGRANCE

TOP: 9/10
HEART: 3/5
BASE: 6/10

SCORE: 81

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